Lovage is a tall, hardy perennial of the carrot family whose leaves, stems and seeds taste of strong celery with a hint of yeast. A little adds depth to soups, stocks, potatoes and salads.
What it is¶
Lovage is a large, hardy perennial that dies back in winter and returns in spring as a clump of glossy, dark green leaves, rather like a giant flat-leaf parsley or celery. By midsummer it can send up hollow flower stems 1.5–2 m tall, with flat umbels of yellow-green flowers followed by aromatic seeds.
The whole plant tastes of celery, only much more so: the leaves, stems, seeds and roots have all been used. In German it is called Liebstöckel and, popularly, Maggikraut, because its flavour resembles Maggi seasoning — though that sauce contains no lovage.
Origins and history¶
Lovage's precise origins are uncertain, but it has been cultivated in Europe for a very long time. The Romans used it, and Charlemagne's Capitulare de villis (around 800) lists levisticum among the plants to be grown on royal estates. It was a mainstay of medieval monastery gardens (see physic-and-monastery-gardens), used both as a pot-herb and as a medicine.
The English name comes from the Latin levisticum by way of Old French, and its resemblance to "love" is an accident of sound — though it did not stop the plant being used in folk love charms. In England, lovage was used as a vegetable and in cordials; a traditional lovage cordial, often mixed with brandy, is still sold. It fell out of fashion with the rise of cultivated celery, but chefs have been reviving it.
Flavour and aroma¶
Lovage tastes like concentrated celery, with a savoury, almost yeasty or meaty depth, notes of parsley and a lingering bitterness. The characteristic celery aroma comes from phthalides, the same family of compounds that flavours celery and celery seed. It is powerful: a few leaves flavour a whole pot of soup, and a large handful overwhelms. Young spring leaves are milder than older summer ones.
In the kitchen¶
- Soups and stocks: a few leaves in potato, pea, chicken or vegetable soup, or in stock instead of celery.
- Potatoes and salads: finely chopped young leaves in potato salad, green salads and with tomatoes; a little in mayonnaise or dressings.
- Eggs and fish: omelettes, with smoked fish and in fish soups.
- Central and eastern Europe: in Romanian ciorbă sour soups (with dill and parsley), and German broths and stews.
- Drinks: the hollow stems make celery-flavoured straws for a Bloody Mary; lovage cordial.
- Seeds: ground like celery seed in breads, pickles and cheese dishes.
- Stems: young stems can be candied like angelica or cooked as a vegetable.
Start with very little and taste as you go; lovage builds.
💡 Where lovage shines
Use it anywhere celery or celery salt would help: a Bloody Mary, egg sandwiches, potato soup, a tomato salad.
Buying and storing¶
Fresh lovage is rarely sold, so most people grow it. Picked leaves keep three or four days wrapped in damp paper in a bag in the fridge. They dry well: hang bunches in a warm, airy place and store crumbled in a sealed jar. Chopped leaves freeze well for soups and stocks. Dry seed heads in a paper bag and store the seed like any other spice.
Substitutes¶
Celery leaves are the natural substitute; use about twice as much. Celery seed or celery salt works in soups, dressings and drinks, and flat-leaf parsley with a pinch of celery seed approximates it well. In small quantities lovage itself can stand in for celery in stocks.
Pairs well with¶
Potatoes, tomatoes, eggs, chicken, ham, smoked fish, peas, carrots, lentils, cream, soured cream, parsley, dill, chives, bay and black pepper.
Growing your own¶
Lovage is a fully hardy perennial and one plant is enough for most households. Grow it in sun or partial shade in rich, moist, well-drained soil, and leave plenty of room: a mature clump is about a metre across. Buy a plant, divide an existing clump in spring, or sow fresh seed in spring or autumn.
Cut stems back to the base in summer if they start to flower, and a new crop of tender leaves will follow; young leaves are the best to cook with. Mulch with compost in autumn. The plant dies back completely in winter and returns reliably, and it will live for many years. Leaf miners sometimes tunnel through the leaves; pick off affected ones.