Zhoug is a hot Yemeni relish of fresh coriander, green chillies, garlic and warm spices, carried to Israel by Yemenite Jews and now a fixture of falafel stands across the region.
What it is¶
Zhoug (also zhug, skhug or s'hug; in Yemen usually sahawiq, from a root meaning "to crush") is a coarse paste of fresh coriander, hot green chillies and garlic, seasoned with cumin, cardamom, black pepper and sometimes cloves, loosened with a little olive oil. It is Yemen's everyday hot sauce, and in Israel, where Yemenite Jewish immigrants brought it in the twentieth century, it is as standard on the falafel counter as tahini. There are green (skhug yarok), red (skhug adom) and brown versions.
Origins¶
In Yemen, sahawiq was traditionally ground on a flat stone with a hand-held grinding stone, and it is eaten with bread, with saltah (the national stew) and with almost every meal. Yemenite Jews, who emigrated in large numbers to the new state of Israel around 1949–50, brought it with them, and it passed into general Israeli street food alongside hilbeh, the frothy fenugreek relish that often shares the table.
Chillies are, of course, American, and would have reached Yemen after the sixteenth century through the Red Sea and Indian Ocean trade; the cardamom and cloves reflect Yemen's position on the old spice routes.
What goes in it¶
| Component | Role |
|---|---|
| Coriander leaves and stems | The green base; stems carry lots of flavour |
| Green chillies | Heat; serrano, bird's eye or long green chillies |
| Garlic | Pungency |
| Cumin (ground or toasted seed) | Earthy warmth |
| Cardamom | The distinctive floral note |
| Black pepper, sometimes cloves | Depth |
| Olive oil, salt, a little lemon | Binding and brightness |
Flavour¶
Hot, green and fragrant: the coriander hits first, then the chilli burn, then a lingering floral warmth from the cardamom that sets zhoug apart from Latin American green sauces. It should be coarse rather than smooth, with visible flecks of herb and chilli.
How to use it¶
- In pitta: with falafel, sabich (fried aubergine and egg), or shawarma, alongside tahini.
- With eggs: stirred into or dotted over Middle Eastern shakshuka.
- In soup: a spoonful in Yemeni chicken or bean soups.
- Mixed: stirred into yoghurt or tahini to make a milder green dressing, or into mayonnaise for sandwiches.
- On grilled food: chicken, lamb, fish, roast cauliflower.
Making it at home¶
About 250 ml · 15 minutes
You need
- 1 large bunch coriander, leaves and tender stems (about 60 g)
- A small handful flat-leaf parsley (about 15 g), optional, to soften the heat
- 4–8 green chillies (serrano or similar), stems removed; deseed some for less heat
- 3 garlic cloves
- 1 tsp ground cumin (or toasted cumin seed, ground)
- ½ tsp ground cardamom (from about 8 green pods)
- ½ tsp black pepper
- Pinch of ground cloves (optional)
- ¾ tsp salt
- 1 tbsp lemon juice
- 4–5 tbsp olive oil
Method
- Roughly chop the chillies and garlic and pulse in a food processor until finely chopped (or pound in a mortar).
- Add the herbs, spices and salt and pulse to a coarse, evenly chopped paste. Do not purée smooth.
- Pulse in the lemon juice and enough oil to loosen it to a spoonable relish.
- Taste for salt and heat; rest for 30 minutes before serving.
Variations¶
- Red zhoug (skhug adom): red chillies in place of green, often with a little paprika or tomato; usually less herbal.
- Brown zhoug: green zhoug with chopped tomato, common in Yemenite homes.
- With hilbeh: zhoug stirred into fenugreek relish makes a combined condiment for bread.
- Milder: replace up to half the coriander with parsley and use jalapeños rather than hotter chillies.
Buying and storing¶
Keep zhoug in a clean jar, levelled and covered with a thin layer of oil, in the fridge for up to a week. It darkens slowly but stays usable. It freezes reasonably well in small portions for 2–3 months. As with any raw garlic and herb paste under oil, do not keep it at room temperature.
⚠️ Chilli hands
A food processor full of green chillies releases a surprising amount of capsaicin into the air when the lid comes off. Stand back, and see handling chillies safely.