The poblano is a large, mild, dark-green Capsicum annuum chilli from Puebla, roasted and stuffed fresh; dried when ripe red it becomes the ancho, the sweet backbone of mole and chilli sauces.
What it is¶
The poblano is a Capsicum annuum chilli, about 10–15 cm long, broad-shouldered and heart-shaped, with thick, glossy, very dark green skin. It is mild, generally 1,000–2,000 SHU, though individual pods can surprise. Poblanos are almost always cooked, typically charred and peeled, then stuffed or cut into strips.
When left to ripen red and then dried, the poblano becomes the ancho ("wide"), a flat, wrinkled, mahogany-coloured chilli. A closely related variety that ripens to a darker brown gives the mulato, which is dried the same way and tastes darker and more chocolatey. Ancho, mulato and pasilla form the "holy trinity" of chillies in Puebla's mole poblano.
📌 Name confusion
In parts of the United States, especially California, fresh poblanos and dried anchos are sometimes labelled "pasilla". True pasilla is a different chilli (dried chilaca). If a recipe calls for "pasilla" but describes a large green chilli for stuffing, it means poblano.
Origins and history¶
The name means "from Puebla", the state and city east of Mexico City where the chilli has long been grown. Puebla is also the home of two of Mexico's most celebrated dishes built on it: mole poblano, the dark sauce of dried chillies, spices, nuts and chocolate (see mole), and chiles en nogada, roasted poblanos stuffed with a fruited meat picadillo, covered in a walnut sauce and scattered with pomegranate seeds. The green, white and red of chiles en nogada echo the Mexican flag, and the dish is traditionally eaten in August and September around Independence Day; the story that it was created for the general Agustín de Iturbide in 1821 is popular but not well documented.
Flavour and aroma¶
Fresh poblanos taste rich, earthy and green, deeper than a bell pepper, with gentle warmth. Charring adds sweetness and smoke. Anchos are among the sweetest of dried chillies: dried plum, raisin, a touch of coffee, cocoa and tobacco, with mild heat. Mulatos push further towards chocolate and liquorice.
In the kitchen¶
Poblano¶
- Chiles rellenos: roasted, peeled poblanos stuffed with cheese (or picadillo), dipped in whipped egg batter and fried, served in tomato broth.
- Rajas: strips of roasted poblano cooked with onion and cream or cheese, for tacos and sides.
- Soups and sauces: blended with cream into crema de poblano, or with tomatillos into green sauces.
- Chiles en nogada in late summer.
To roast, char poblanos directly over a gas flame, under a hot grill or on a barbecue, turning, until blackened all over (8–10 minutes). Sweat in a covered bowl for 10 minutes, then rub off the skin; do not rinse, which washes away flavour.
Ancho¶
Toast anchos briefly in a dry pan (10–20 seconds per side, until fragrant and pliable, never smoking), then soak in hot water for 15–20 minutes and blend with the soaking water, garlic and spices. This makes the base of enchilada sauces, adobos for meat, and red chile for pozole and tamales. Ground ancho is a good mild, sweet chilli powder for rubs. See rehydrating dried chillies.
💡 Don't burn the dried ones
A scorched ancho turns acrid and bitter, and the bitterness carries through the whole sauce. Toast until you just smell it, and take it off the heat.
Buying and storing¶
Fresh poblanos should be firm, glossy and heavy; they keep a week or two in the fridge. Roasted, peeled poblanos freeze well. Good anchos are soft and flexible like a prune, not brittle, and smell fruity. Store airtight in a cool, dark place for up to a year; if they dry out, they still work once soaked.
Substitutes¶
- Poblano: Anaheim or New Mexico green chillies; green bell pepper plus a little jalapeño for heat.
- Ancho: mulato (darker), pasilla (more bitter), guajillo (brighter, tangier). A mix of sweet paprika and a little chipotle can imitate ground ancho in a rub.
Pairs well with¶
Tomato, tomatillo, cream, cheese (queso fresco, Oaxaca, Chihuahua), corn, garlic, onion, cumin, cinnamon, cloves, chocolate, pork, chicken and epazote.
Growing your own¶
Poblanos grow into sturdy plants 60–90 cm tall. Sow indoors in February–March at 20–25°C and grow in a greenhouse or a warm, sunny spot outdoors after frost. The large pods take time: pick green when full-sized and glossy for poblanos, or leave until deep red to dry your own anchos, hung in a warm, airy place. See growing chillies.