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Hawaij

Yemen's two blends: one for soup, one for coffee

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The name for two Yemeni blends: a savoury one of cumin, black pepper, turmeric and cardamom for soups and stews, and a sweet one of ginger, cardamom and cinnamon for coffee.

What it is

Hawaij (Arabic ḥawāyij, roughly "necessities") is the name for two different Yemeni spice blends. Savoury hawaij is a golden, peppery mixture of cumin, black pepper, turmeric and cardamom, used in soups, stews and rice. Hawaij for coffee is a sweet blend of ginger, cardamom, cinnamon and sometimes cloves or fennel, brewed with coffee or tea.

Both are widely used in Israel too, carried there by Yemenite Jews, whose cooking is well established in Israeli food culture. In Israeli shops, a jar labelled simply "hawaij" is usually the soup blend; the coffee version is labelled as such.

Origins

Yemen sat on the ancient incense and spice routes of southern Arabia (see ancient-spice-routes), and the port of Mocha gave its name to the coffee exported from Yemen from the 15th century onwards. Its cuisine uses cardamom, cumin and pepper heavily. Hawaij is a household and market blend, and like most such mixtures its specific history is not well documented.

Most of Yemen's Jewish community emigrated to Israel around 1949–50, in the airlift known as Operation Magic Carpet, and brought hawaij, zhoug and Yemeni soups with them. Those dishes became part of mainstream Israeli cooking.

What goes in it

Savoury hawaij

Spice Role
cumin Earthy body; the largest part
black pepper Heat
turmeric Colour and earthiness
Cardamom Aromatic lift
Optional: coriander, cloves, caraway, nigella Family variations

Coffee hawaij

Spice Role
ginger (dried) Warm, sharp; the largest part
Cardamom Sweet, floral
cinnamon Sweet warmth
Optional: cloves, fennel or aniseed, nutmeg Variations

Flavour

The savoury blend is earthy, peppery and warm, with a gentle perfume from cardamom; it gives Yemeni chicken and beef soups their golden colour and distinctive depth. The coffee blend is sweet and zingy, dominated by ginger and cardamom.

How to use it

  • Yemeni soup (marak temani): 1–2 tablespoons savoury hawaij for a large pot of beef or chicken soup with potatoes, onion, tomato and plenty of coriander leaf. Served with zhoug and flatbread.
  • Stews and rice: in lentil stews, rice pilafs and roast vegetables.
  • Eggs and meats: rubbed on chicken or stirred into shakshuka.
  • Coffee: stir ½ teaspoon coffee hawaij into the grounds for 2 cups before brewing, or simmer with coffee in a small pot, Yemeni-style.
  • Tea and baking: coffee hawaij in milky tea, cakes or cookies.

Making it at home

About 5 tablespoons (savoury hawaij) · 10 minutes

You need

  • 2 tbsp cumin seeds
  • 1 tbsp black peppercorns
  • Seeds from 10 green cardamom pods
  • 1 tsp coriander seeds (optional)
  • 4 cloves (optional)
  • 1½ tbsp ground turmeric

Method

  1. Toast the cumin, peppercorns, cardamom, coriander and cloves in a dry pan for 2 minutes until fragrant.
  2. Cool on a plate, then grind finely.
  3. Mix in the turmeric and store airtight.
  4. For coffee hawaij, mix 2 tbsp ground ginger, 1 tbsp ground cardamom, 1 tsp ground cinnamon and ½ tsp ground cloves; no toasting needed.

Variations

  • Savoury blends differ between Yemeni regions and families; some add caraway or nigella, others more cardamom.
  • Israeli commercial hawaij is often turmeric-heavy.
  • Coffee hawaij sometimes includes fennel or aniseed, and is also used with qishr, a Yemeni drink brewed from coffee husks with ginger.

Every household has its own version; no single one is authentic.

Buying and storing

Keep both blends airtight and dark. Label the jars clearly: soup spice in coffee is not a pleasant surprise. Israeli and Middle Eastern grocers stock both.

See also