Vietnamese food is defined by generous fresh herbs, fish sauce and lime, with star anise and cinnamon in the broths and three regions of distinct character.
Overview¶
If Thai cooking pounds its herbs into pastes, Vietnamese cooking tends to leave them whole and raw. A bowl of pho or a plate of grilled pork arrives with a separate basket of leaves — mint, Thai basil, perilla, culantro, Vietnamese coriander, lettuce and bean sprouts — for each diner to tear in. The herb plate is a seasoning, not a garnish, and the mixture changes by dish and by region.
Dried spices appear mostly in long-simmered broths and marinades, where the influence of a thousand years of Chinese rule and later French colonialism shows: star anise, cassia, cloves and black pepper from one side, baguettes, pâté and coffee from the other. Vietnam is one of the world's largest pepper producers (see biggest-spice-producers) and a major source of cassia and star anise.
The core palette¶
- Fresh herbs: beyond those above, rice paddy herb (ngo om, cumin-citrus scented, for sour soups), dill (essential in the northern fish dish cha ca), lemongrass, and Vietnamese balm (kinh gioi). See fresh-vs-dried-herbs.
- Broth spices: star anise, cassia or cinnamon, cloves, black cardamom (thao qua), coriander seed and fennel seed, all toasted. Charred ginger and onion go in too.
- Pepper: freshly ground black pepper is a signature seasoning, especially in caramelised clay-pot dishes and on rice porridge.
- Chilli: fresh bird's eye chillies sliced into fish sauce, chilli-garlic sauces, and in Hue a potent sate chilli oil with lemongrass.
- Annatto seeds, fried in oil for colour in bun bo Hue and some stews.
- Five-spice for roast duck and pork, and turmeric for cha ca and some southern dishes.
Regional differences¶
North¶
Hanoi cooking is restrained, with fewer herbs and less sugar and chilli. Pho is thought to have developed here in the early twentieth century; the northern style is clear, with fewer garnishes. Cha ca La Vong — turmeric-marinated fish fried at the table with masses of dill and spring onion — is a Hanoi classic.
Centre¶
Hue, the old imperial capital, is known for the most chilli-forward and intricate food in Vietnam: bun bo Hue (a lemongrass, shrimp paste and chilli beef noodle soup), and many small, elaborate dishes from the court tradition.
South¶
Saigon and the Mekong Delta cook sweeter, with more coconut, more sugar and far larger herb plates. Southern pho comes with a pile of basil, sawtooth and sprouts and bottles of hoisin and sriracha — the latter a Thai-originated sauce popularised by an American brand, so its place on the pho table is a relatively recent one.
Key techniques¶
- Charring aromatics: onion and ginger are blackened over a flame or under the grill before going into broth, for sweetness and a light smokiness. Whole spices are dry-toasted until fragrant and tied in muslin so they can be removed. See toasting-spices.
- Nuoc cham: fish sauce, lime juice (or vinegar), sugar and water balanced to taste, with garlic and chilli. The balance is personal, but it should taste pleasant on its own, not merely salty.
- Nuoc mau: dark caramel used as a seasoning in clay-pot fish and pork, with plenty of black pepper.
- Wrapping: rice paper rolls and lettuce wraps let each bite combine meat, noodles and several herbs at once.
💡 Keep the herbs cold and dry
Herb plates are only as good as their leaves. Wash, spin dry and keep them in a box lined with kitchen paper in the fridge; see storing-fresh-herbs. Tear leaves into the bowl just before eating so they stay bright.
Landmark dishes¶
Pho bo and pho ga, bun cha (Hanoi grilled pork with noodles and herbs), bun bo Hue, cha ca, goi cuon (fresh rolls), banh xeo (crisp turmeric pancakes wrapped in mustard greens and herbs), ca kho to (caramelised clay-pot fish), canh chua (sour tamarind soup with rice paddy herb), com tam (broken rice) and banh mi.
Stocking the cupboard¶
- Star anise, cassia and cloves for broths
- Black peppercorns — good Vietnamese Phu Quoc pepper if you can find it
- Black cardamom and coriander seed
- Fresh lemongrass, ginger and bird's eye chillies
- A reliable fish sauce and rice vinegar
- Fresh mint, Thai basil and coriander; grow Vietnamese coriander and perilla in pots — both are easy (see growing-herbs-indoors)
- Annatto seed and five-spice if you plan to cook bun bo Hue or roast meats