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Pickling spice

Whole spices for vinegar pickles, brines and corned beef

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A mixture of whole spices, typically mustard seed, coriander, allspice, peppercorns, bay, cloves, dill seed and dried chilli, used to flavour pickling vinegars, brines and corned beef.

What it is

Pickling spice is a mixture of whole spices used to flavour vinegar or brine for pickles. A typical blend includes yellow and brown mustard seed, coriander seed, allspice berries, black peppercorns, bay leaves, cloves, dill seed, small dried chillies, and pieces of ginger, cinnamon or mace.

It is always used whole. Ground spices cloud a pickling liquid and can turn bitter over months in vinegar, whereas whole spices infuse slowly and look attractive in the jar. The same blend is also used in brines for corned beef and pastrami, and in some braises.

Origins

Pickling in spiced vinegar is an ancient way of preserving vegetables, and British cooks were pickling onions, walnuts, cucumbers and red cabbage in vinegar infused with pepper, ginger, mace and cloves by the 17th and 18th centuries; recipes for "spiced vinegar" and "pickle" appear in cookbooks of the period. Vinegar's acidity preserves; the spices add flavour, and their antimicrobial properties are modest. See spices-and-food-preservation.

The blend travelled with British, German, Jewish and Scandinavian settlers to North America, where dill pickles, corned beef and pickled herring each developed their own spicing. Pre-mixed pickling spice became a standard grocery item in the 20th century.

What goes in it

Spice Role
Mustard seed (yellow and brown) Pungent, nutty; the bulk
Coriander seed Citrusy warmth
allspice Sweet, clove-like depth
Black peppercorns Heat
Bay leaves Herbal, savoury
cloves Pungent, resinous
Dill seed Classic for cucumber pickles
Small dried chillies Heat
ginger (dried pieces) Warm, clean heat
cinnamon or cassia (broken), mace Sweetness, in some blends
Optional: juniper, cardamom, fennel seed Variations

Flavour

Pungent, warm and aromatic, with mustard and pepper in front and the sweetness of allspice and cloves behind. In vinegar, the effect is a rounded, spiced sharpness: the familiar taste of a British pickled onion or an American deli dill pickle.

How to use it

  • Spiced pickling vinegar: see the recipe below; use for onions, shallots, beetroot, red cabbage and eggs.
  • Quick refrigerator pickles: 1–2 teaspoons per 500 ml jar of cucumbers, carrots or cauliflower in a hot vinegar-sugar-salt brine.
  • Corned beef and pastrami: 2–3 tablespoons in the brine, and again in the cooking water.
  • Pickled herring and fish: with onion and vinegar.
  • Chutneys: tied in a muslin bag and removed before potting.

💡 Use a muslin bag

Tie the spices in a square of muslin for chutneys and brines you want clear of seeds. For jars of pickles, loose spices look better.

Making it at home

About 8 tablespoons of spice; 1 litre spiced vinegar · 10 minutes, plus 2 hours infusing

You need

  • 2 tbsp yellow mustard seeds
  • 1 tbsp brown mustard seeds
  • 1 tbsp coriander seeds
  • 1 tbsp allspice berries
  • 2 tsp black peppercorns
  • 1 tsp dill seeds
  • 1 tsp cloves
  • 4–6 small dried chillies, crumbled
  • 4 bay leaves, crumbled
  • 3 cm cinnamon stick, broken
  • 1 tsp dried ginger pieces (or 2 slices dried ginger root)
  • For spiced vinegar: 1 litre malt or cider vinegar and 2–3 tbsp of the spice mix

Method

  1. Mix all the whole spices together and store in an airtight jar.
  2. For spiced vinegar, put the vinegar and 2–3 tablespoons of the mix in a stainless steel or enamel pan and bring slowly to just below the boil. Do not use aluminium or copper, which react with vinegar.
  3. Take off the heat, cover and leave to infuse for 2 hours, or overnight for a stronger flavour.
  4. Strain, or keep some spices in for the look of the jar. Use hot for soft pickles (red cabbage needs it cold to stay crisp; onions can go either way).

Variations

  • British: often with ginger and mace, used in malt vinegar for onions and red cabbage.
  • American deli: dill seed, garlic and mustard; heavier on coriander and allspice for corned beef.
  • Scandinavian: allspice, bay and mustard for pickled herring; some add juniper.
  • Hot: extra chillies for pickled chillies and onions.

Pickling traditions differ from region to region and family to family; there is no single correct blend.

Buying and storing

Whole spices keep for a year or more airtight. For safe preserving, follow a tested recipe for the vinegar strength and sugar and salt levels; spices do not replace acidity or proper sterilising of jars.

See also