Makrut lime leaves are the glossy, figure-of-eight leaves of a Southeast Asian citrus tree, used to perfume Thai curries, soups and salads with an intense, clean lime aroma.
What it is¶
Makrut lime leaves are the leaves of Citrus hystrix, a thorny citrus tree native to Southeast Asia. Each leaf looks like two glossy leaves joined end to end, in a figure-of-eight: the top part is the leaf blade proper and the lower part is a broad, winged leaf stalk. Their scent is intense, sharp and clean, like freshly grated lime zest with a floral lift.
The fruit is small, knobbly and nearly juiceless; its bumpy rind is grated into curry pastes, but it is the leaves that most cooks buy. In Thai the tree is makrut, in Indonesian and Malay jeruk purut or limau purut, in Khmer kroch soeuch.
In English it was long known by another name, "kaffir lime", but that word is a grave racial slur in South Africa. Most food writers, publishers and retailers have switched to makrut, and we follow them.
Origins and history¶
The makrut lime has been cultivated for a very long time in Southeast Asia, where citrus as a genus originated; its exact wild origin is not known. Its leaves and rind became fundamental to the cooking of Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, Malaysia and Indonesia, and it is used in Burmese and southern Chinese cooking too. The rind and juice were traditionally used in hair and cleaning preparations as well as in cooking.
The leaves became familiar in Britain and elsewhere in the West in the 1980s and 1990s with the spread of Thai restaurants, and fresh and frozen leaves are now easy to find in Asian grocers and many supermarkets.
Flavour and aroma¶
The aroma of a torn fresh leaf is sharp and penetrating: lime zest, lemongrass and a floral, almost perfumed note. The leaf itself is not sour. Most of the aroma is due to citronellal, a compound also found in lemon balm and citronella oil.
The flavour is strong: two or three leaves will perfume a curry for four. Dried leaves lose a great deal of their brightness and take on a duller, hay-like note.
In the kitchen¶
Makrut lime leaves are used in two ways: whole, for infusion, or shredded, to eat.
- Soups and curries. For tom yum, tom kha gai and most Thai curries, tear 3–5 leaves in half (or crush them in your hand) and add with the liquid, removing the tough central rib first if you like. They are not usually eaten.
- Curry pastes. Finely chopped leaves and grated rind go into many pastes, including thai red curry paste and Cambodian kroeung.
- Shredded. For fish cakes (tod man pla), salads, stir-fries and as a garnish on curries such as panang, remove the midrib, stack several leaves, roll tightly and slice across into hair-fine threads with a very sharp knife. Thick strips are tough and unpleasant to chew.
- Indonesia and Malaysia. Daun jeruk purut is simmered in rendang, soto and sambal-based dishes, and shredded into Balinese bumbu spice pastes.
- Beyond Asia. Infuse leaves in coconut milk, sugar syrup or cream for desserts and cocktails; they also flavour rice, stocks, and oil.
💡 The hair-thin shred
The finer you shred a makrut lime leaf, the more pleasant it is to eat and the more evenly the aroma spreads. Fold a stack of leaves along the midrib, cut the rib away, then slice across with the tip of the knife.
Buying and storing¶
Fresh leaves, from Southeast Asian grocers or supermarkets, should be deep green and glossy. They keep for a week or two in a sealed bag in the fridge.
Makrut lime leaves freeze superbly, with little loss of flavour. Freeze them flat in a bag; they can be used straight from frozen for up to a year. Dried leaves are a fallback; use about half as many again as fresh, and crumble them into long-cooked dishes. See freezing herbs.
Substitutes¶
The finely grated zest of a lime (one lime replacing roughly three leaves) is the closest substitute, though it lacks the leaf's floral depth. Adding a stalk of lemongrass, or a bay leaf alongside the zest for body, helps in soups and curries. Leaves of ordinary lime trees are much milder but can be used in larger quantity.
Pairs well with¶
Lemongrass, galangal, ginger, chillies, garlic, shallots, coriander leaf, thai basil, coconut milk, fish sauce, palm sugar, prawns, chicken, fish and pork.
Growing your own¶
Citrus hystrix is tender and needs the same care as other citrus in a cool climate: a large container, a bright spot, and frost protection.
- Conditions. Grow in a pot of free-draining citrus or loam-based compost. Keep it outdoors in a sunny, sheltered place in summer, and bring it indoors or into a greenhouse before temperatures drop below about 10°C. It needs as much light as possible in winter.
- Watering and feeding. Water thoroughly when the top few centimetres of compost are dry; avoid waterlogging. Use a summer citrus feed from spring to autumn and a winter citrus feed in the colder months.
- Harvesting. Pick leaves as needed; a mature plant tolerates regular harvesting and responds with fresh growth. Wear gloves or take care: the stems carry sharp thorns.
- Buying. Grafted plants from specialist nurseries establish faster and are more vigorous than seedlings.