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Gremolata

Milan's three-ingredient finishing condiment of parsley, lemon and garlic

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Gremolata is a dry Milanese condiment of chopped parsley, lemon zest and garlic, scattered over ossobuco and other braises at the last moment to add freshness and lift.

What it is

Gremolata (also gremolada in Milanese dialect) is a finely chopped mixture of flat-leaf parsley, lemon zest and raw garlic. Unlike most sauces on this site it contains no oil or liquid: it is a scattering condiment, sprinkled over a hot dish just before serving so the heat releases its perfume. Its classic partner is ossobuco alla milanese, braised veal shin, where its sharp freshness cuts the gelatinous richness of the marrow and sauce.

Origins

Gremolata belongs to the Milanese kitchen and is inseparable from ossobuco, which itself appears in cookbooks from the nineteenth century onward. Lemon peel and parsley added to a braise at the last moment is an old northern Italian habit, and gremolata is its most refined form. The name is usually connected with a Milanese word for small grains or crumbs, which describes the fine chop, though the derivation is not certain.

There is a small Milanese argument about whether ossobuco with tomato is authentic (the older in bianco version has none) and whether anchovy belongs in the gremolata. Both camps agree on the lemon.

What goes in it

Component Role
Flat-leaf parsley Green freshness and bulk
Unwaxed lemon zest Perfume from the oil in the peel; the defining element
Garlic A raw, pungent edge; one small clove per bunch

Some cooks add a finely chopped anchovy fillet (not vegetarian) or a little rosemary or sage.

Flavour

Bright, citrus-scented and pungent. The lemon zest carries aromatic oils (mainly limonene) without the sourness of juice, so gremolata lifts a dish without making it acidic. Raw garlic is the risk: too much and it dominates everything; chopped very finely and in proportion it simply sharpens.

How to use it

  • Ossobuco alla milanese, served with risotto alla milanese (the saffron risotto).
  • Other braises: lamb shanks, beef short ribs, stews and pot-roasts, where it gives a last-minute contrast to long cooking.
  • Fish and seafood: grilled prawns, roast cod, clams.
  • Vegetables: roast carrots, asparagus, white beans.
  • With breadcrumbs: toasted crumbs mixed with gremolata make a crunchy topping for pasta or gratins.

💡 Add it at the table

Stir gremolata into a braise at the moment of serving, or scatter it on each plate. Cooked for even a few minutes, the garlic mellows and the zest's perfume fades, and it becomes just more parsley.

Making it at home

About 4 tbsp (for 4 portions of ossobuco) · 5 minutes

You need

  • A small bunch flat-leaf parsley (about 15 g leaves)
  • Finely grated zest of 1 unwaxed lemon
  • 1 small garlic clove

Method

  1. Dry the parsley thoroughly; wet leaves turn to a paste.
  2. Chop the garlic very finely, then add the parsley and chop both together until fine.
  3. Add the lemon zest and chop through a few more times to combine. Use within a few hours.

Variations

  • Orange gremolata: orange zest instead of lemon, good with duck, pork and beetroot.
  • Mint gremolata: mint with some or all of the parsley, for lamb.
  • Horseradish gremolata: freshly grated horseradish with the lemon and parsley, for beef.
  • Pangrattato gremolata: fried breadcrumbs mixed in for crunch.
  • Close relatives: French persillade (parsley and garlic, without the lemon) and Italian salsa verde (with oil, capers and vinegar).

Buying and storing

Gremolata is a make-and-use condiment. It keeps for a few hours covered at room temperature and about a day in the fridge before the parsley wilts and the zest loses its scent. It does not freeze usefully. Buy unwaxed lemons, or scrub waxed ones in hot water, since the zest is the point.

See also