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Dry rubs and marinades

What they can and cannot do to a piece of meat

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How dry rubs and wet marinades work, what they actually penetrate, how long to leave them, the right balance of salt, sugar, acid and spice, and how to use them safely.

What actually happens

It is a common belief that marinades soak deep into meat. In practice, most flavour molecules (the aromatic compounds in herbs, spices and garlic) penetrate only a few millimetres, even over many hours. What does travel further is salt, which slowly diffuses into the meat, seasons it and alters its proteins so it holds on to more juice during cooking. Acids and enzymes act mainly on the surface.

So the practical rule is: salt does the deep work; spices and herbs flavour the outside, which is where you taste them first anyway.

Dry rubs

A dry rub is a mix of salt, spices, dried herbs and often sugar, pressed onto the surface of food before cooking. Examples include jerk-seasoning (usually made as a wet paste in Jamaica), cajun-seasoning, American barbecue rubs, suya-spice and tandoori-masala (usually in a yoghurt marinade).

A basic rub formula

Component Proportion Examples
Salt 1 part Fine sea salt or kosher salt
Sugar (optional) 0–1 part Brown sugar, for crust and caramel
Main spice 1–2 parts paprika, chili-powder, ground coriander
Supporting spices 1 part in total Black pepper, cumin, garlic and onion powder, mustard
Heat To taste Cayenne, chipotle, chilli-flakes
Dried herbs (optional) ½ part thyme, oregano, rosemary

How to use a rub

  1. Pat the food dry.
  2. Apply roughly 1 tbsp of rub per 500 g of meat (for a rub containing salt; more for salt-free rubs). Coat evenly and press it on.
  3. Leave uncovered or loosely covered in the fridge. Thin cuts and chicken pieces: 1–12 hours. Large joints and pork shoulder: up to 24 hours.
  4. Cook.

Salting in advance on its own is called dry brining: about 1% of the meat's weight in salt (10 g per kg), left for anything from an hour to a day or two for large joints, gives well-seasoned, juicy meat and drier skin that crisps better.

🛟 The rub burnt black

Sugar begins to caramelise and then scorch quickly over direct high heat, and ground chilli burns easily too. For grilling over direct heat, use little or no sugar. Keep sugary rubs for low-and-slow barbecue, roasting, or indirect heat, or apply a sugary glaze only in the last few minutes.

Wet marinades

A marinade usually combines:

  • Fat (oil, yoghurt, coconut milk) to carry fat-soluble flavours and help browning.
  • Acid (citrus, vinegar, wine) or enzymes (pineapple, papaya, ginger, kiwi) to affect the surface texture.
  • Salt or salty ingredients (soy sauce, fish sauce, miso) to season and help retain moisture.
  • Aromatics: garlic, ginger, herbs, spices, chilli, ginger-garlic-paste.

How long to marinate

Food Acidic marinade Yoghurt, oil or soy-based
Fish and prawns 15–30 min 30 min–2 h
Chicken pieces 1–4 h 2–24 h
Pork, lamb chops 2–6 h 4–24 h
Beef steaks 2–6 h 4–24 h
Tofu, vegetables 30 min–2 h 30 min–12 h

Longer is not always better. Strongly acidic marinades turn the surface of fish opaque and chalky within an hour (this is how ceviche "cooks") and can make chicken mushy if left overnight. Enzyme-rich ingredients such as fresh pineapple and papaya can turn meat mealy within a few hours.

Yoghurt marinades, used in Indian and Middle Eastern cooking, are gentle and forgiving, which is why tandoori chicken is often marinated overnight.

Food safety

⚠️ Marinating safely

  • Always marinate in the fridge, not on the worktop.
  • Do not reuse marinade that has touched raw meat, poultry or fish as a sauce unless you bring it to a full boil first and simmer for a few minutes. Better: set aside a portion for basting or serving before adding the raw food.
  • Use non-reactive containers (glass, ceramic, stainless steel, food-safe plastic): acidic marinades react with aluminium and copper.
  • Pat off excess marinade before searing or grilling for better browning and fewer flare-ups.

See also