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Dried lime

Loomi: brined, sun-dried limes with a sour, musky, fermented depth

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Dried limes, called loomi or limoo omani, are small limes brined and dried until hard and dark. Pierced or ground, they add a sour, musky, faintly smoky depth to Gulf, Iraqi and Persian stews.

What it is

Dried limes are exactly what they sound like, although the process adds something. Small limes are usually boiled briefly in salted water and then left in the sun for several weeks until they are dry, hollow-sounding and very light. During drying, the flesh ferments slightly and darkens.

They come in two colours:

  • Tan or light brown, the more common type, sharper and brighter.
  • Black, dried longer or in stronger sun, with a deeper, smokier, more fermented flavour.

They are called loomi (or noomi) in Arabic and limoo amani or limoo omani, "Omani lime", in Persian — a clue to where the trade was centred.

Origins and history

Limes probably reached the Gulf and Persia from South and South-East Asia via Indian Ocean trade. Oman, with its lime orchards and fierce sun, became associated with drying them, and the dried fruit was traded around the Gulf, into Iran and up into Iraq. Dried limes are now fixtures of Persian, Iraqi, Kuwaiti, Emirati, Bahraini and Saudi cooking.

Details of when the practice began are not well documented; it seems to be an old way of preserving a glut of fruit rather than a single invention.

Flavour and aroma

Dried lime is sour, but not like fresh lime juice. The acidity is deeper and more earthy, with a musky, almost fermented funk, a faint bitterness from the peel and pith, and, in black limes, a smoky edge. It gives stews a background brightness and complexity that is hard to identify but easy to miss when absent.

In the kitchen

Using them whole

Pierce each lime two or three times with a skewer or the tip of a knife (or crack it lightly), so liquid can get in and flavour can get out, then drop it into the pot for the last hour or so of simmering. Press it against the side of the pan occasionally to squeeze out more flavour. Allow one or two limes per pot serving four. Fish them out before serving, or leave them for guests who like to squeeze them over their food.

Using them ground

Crack the limes, remove the seeds (they are bitter), and grind the shells in a spice grinder. Ground dried lime is used in rubs, rice and spice blends such as Gulf baharat. Some versions of Persian advieh include it.

Classic dishes

  • Persian ghormeh sabzi (herb, kidney-bean and lamb stew) and gheymeh (split pea and lamb stew).
  • Gulf machboos and kabsa, spiced rice dishes with meat or fish.
  • Iraqi stews and soups, and fish dishes.
  • Noomi basra, a sour tea of dried lime and sugar drunk in Iraq and the Gulf.

💡 Watch the bitterness

Too many limes, or leaving them in too long, can make a dish bitter. If a stew turns harsh, remove the limes and balance with a little sugar or honey.

Buying and storing

Whole dried limes keep for a year or more in an airtight jar in a dry cupboard; they may darken slightly. Ground dried lime loses its aroma in a few months. Avoid limes that are mouldy inside when cracked, or soft rather than rock-hard.

Substitutes

Fresh lime zest and juice added near the end of cooking give sourness without the musky depth — use the zest and juice of one lime per dried lime. sumac provides a different sour note. A small amount of tamarind adds body. There is no real substitute for the fermented character.

Pairs well with

Lamb, beef, chicken, fish, kidney beans, split peas, rice, fenugreek leaves, parsley, onions, tomatoes, turmeric, saffron, cinnamon, cardamom, black cardamom, cumin, black pepper and baharat.

See also