A turmeric-yellow blend of coriander, cumin, fenugreek, chilli and other spices, created for British and colonial kitchens and now at home in Japan, the Caribbean and beyond.
What it is¶
Curry powder is a ready-mixed, all-purpose spice blend designed to make a "curry" in one step. It is not an Indian pantry staple in the way garam-masala is: Indian cooks generally combine individual spices differently for each dish. Curry powder is a product of the British encounter with Indian food, invented so that returning officials, merchants and their cooks could reproduce the flavours at home.
Its defining features are colour and completeness. turmeric gives the yellow, coriander and cumin the body, fenugreek the distinctive savoury, maple-like smell most people associate with "curry", and chilli the heat. Because it contains the base spices as well as aromatics, it is usually fried early in cooking rather than added at the end.
Origins¶
The word curry is generally traced to the Tamil kari, a word for a spiced sauce or relish, adopted by Portuguese and then English traders. Hannah Glasse's The Art of Cookery (1747) has a recipe "to make a currey the India way", seasoned with pepper and toasted coriander seed. Ready-made curry powders were being sold in London by the late 18th century, and by the 19th century they were a standard grocery item and a fixture of Victorian cookbooks.
Curry powder then travelled with the British Empire and its sailors. In Japan, curry arrived in the Meiji era (1868–1912), reportedly through contact with the British navy, and domestic curry powders and roux blocks developed in the early 20th century into a national comfort food, karē raisu. In the Caribbean, indentured labourers from India brought their own masalas in the 19th century, and a distinct turmeric-rich West Indian curry powder emerged, often with extra allspice or toasted cumin. South Africa, Malaysia and Singapore all have their own styles too.
What goes in it¶
| Spice | Role |
|---|---|
| Coriander seed | Bulk and mild citrus; often a third or more of the blend |
| turmeric | Colour and earthy bitterness |
| cumin | Warm, earthy depth |
| fenugreek | The characteristic "curry" smell; bitter in excess |
| Chilli or cayenne | Heat |
| black pepper | Pungency |
| ginger (dried) | Warm, clean heat |
| Mustard seed | Sharpness, especially in southern-style blends |
| cinnamon, cloves, cardamom | Sweet aromatics, in small amounts |
| Curry leaves | In some Madras and Sri Lankan-style mixes |
Flavour¶
Earthy, savoury and warm, with a slightly bitter edge from turmeric and fenugreek. Mild curry powders are rounded and sweetish; "Madras" styles are hotter and more pungent. Raw curry powder tastes dusty and harsh, which is why it needs frying in oil before liquid goes in.
How to use it¶
- Fry it first. Cook 1–2 tablespoons in oil with softened onion for 1–2 minutes before adding liquid; this is blooming-spices-in-oil and removes the raw taste.
- British classics: coronation chicken (mixed into mayonnaise, ideally after gently cooking the powder), kedgeree, mulligatawny soup, curried parsnip soup, curry sauce for chips.
- Japanese curry: combined with a flour-and-butter roux and simmered with potato, carrot and onion.
- Caribbean: curry goat and curry chicken, where the powder is often "burned" briefly in hot oil for a darker flavour.
- Quick seasoning: eggs, roast cauliflower, dressings, popcorn.
Making it at home¶
About 10 tablespoons · 15 minutes
You need
- 3 tbsp coriander seeds
- 1½ tbsp cumin seeds
- 1 tsp fenugreek seeds
- 1 tsp black mustard seeds
- 1 tsp black peppercorns
- 4 cloves
- Seeds from 4 green cardamom pods
- 2–6 dried red chillies, to taste (or 1–2 tsp chilli powder)
- 1½ tbsp ground turmeric
- 2 tsp ground ginger
Method
- Toast the coriander, cumin, fenugreek, mustard seeds, peppercorns, cloves and cardamom in a dry pan over a medium-low heat for 2–3 minutes, until fragrant. Fenugreek turns bitter if it goes past light brown.
- Add the dried chillies for the last 30 seconds, then tip onto a plate to cool.
- Grind to a fine powder and mix in the ground turmeric and ginger.
- Store airtight. Fry in oil before use, as with any bought curry powder.
Variations¶
- Mild / "English": more coriander and turmeric, little chilli.
- Madras: a British trade name rather than a recipe from Chennai; hotter, with more chilli and often mustard and curry leaf.
- Japanese: sweeter and more aromatic, with star anise, cinnamon and sometimes sage or thyme among many ingredients.
- Jamaican and Trinidadian: very turmeric-forward, sometimes with allspice; often toasted before grinding.
- Sri Lankan "roasted" curry powder: dark-roasted coriander, cumin, fennel and curry leaves, a different animal entirely.
There is no original recipe to be faithful to: curry powder was a commercial convenience from the start, and every maker has adjusted it.
Buying and storing¶
Curry powder fades within months, and turmeric-heavy blends lose their colour in sunlight. Buy small packets from shops with a good turnover (Indian and Caribbean grocers are ideal) and keep them airtight. Turmeric is a spice with a history of adulteration, including lead chromate added for colour in some markets; buying from reputable sources matters. See spice-adulteration and lead-in-spices.